Hampi: The ruins of Karnataka's magnificent past

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Hampi is a village in northern Karnataka state, India.Hampi is located within the ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara empire. Possibly predating the city of Vijayanagara, this village continues to be an important religious centre, housing the Virupaksha Temple. The village of Hampi contains several other monuments belonging to the old city. It extends into some of the old ceremonial streets of Vijayanagara. As the village is at the original centre of Vijayanagara, it is sometimes confused with this ruined city. The Vijayanagara ruins are listed as the Group of Monuments at Hampi as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Hampi, as it is popularly known today was the medieval capital of the Hindu empire Vijayanagara (the City of Victory).Hampi in the Karnataka state of India is listed as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Hampi is charismatic even in its ruined state. It attracts thousands of tourists and pilgrims every year. Vast stretches of boulder-strewn hills make the backdrop of Hampi unique. Dotted around the hills and valleys are 500 plus monuments. Among them are beautiful temples, basement of palaces, remains of aquatic structures, ancient market streets, royal pavilions, bastions, royal platforms, treasury buildings.., the list is practically endless. Hampi is a backpackers paradise, the same way the pilgrims delight. In Hampi at every turn there is a surprise. Every monument hides more than what they reveal. As an open museum, Hampi has numerous popular (100 plus!) locations visitors throng.

The typical version Hampi’s history starts with a popular folklore. Two local chieftains, Hakka & Bukka , reports to their guru an unusual sight they saw during a hunting expedition. A hare chased by their hound suddenly turns courageous and start chasing back the hound. Vidyaranya, the guru, tells them that the place is so special and asks them to establish theirs local capital at this place. The seed of an empire was sown. Over the next 200 plus years (1336 AD – 1565 AD) four dynasties ruled Vijayanagar . History of Vijayanagar’s had been a saga of resistance against the northern Sultanates as well as building of its spectacular capital in Hampi. The capital was one major trading center. Anything from horses to gems was traded in Hampi. Art and architecture found its special place in Hampi. The rulers were great patrons of art and religion. Most of the kings associated names of their favorite gods with their names. Some of the kings were renowned for their ambitious projects. King Krishnadeva Raya (1509-1529 AD) of the Tuluva Dynasty stands tall among the rest. During his regime the empire saw its peak. By this time Vijayanagara Empire covered the whole of south India and beyond. The Krishna Temple that you can visit in Hampi was commissioned by him to commemorate the victory over the Gajapathi kings of Utkala (in present day Orissa state).The warring Deccan Sultanates could finally join together to defeat the Vijayanagara army at Talarikota, a place north of Hampi. Vijayanagar army suffered heavy losses. http://img2.travelblog.org/Photos/1449/48836/f/267508-Hemakuta-Hill-Hampi-0.jpg

The capital city was plundered, its population massacred. Treasure hunters ransacked its palaces and temples for months. Kings lost, capital fallen, population fled, Hampi turned into a ghost city. For centuries Hampi remained as a neglected place. This erstwhile metropolitan with more than half a million population slowly turned into a jungle where wild animals roamed freely. The area came under many kings from time to time with the flow of history. But it was no more considered strategic and hence neglected. During the colonial period, Hampi evoked some curiosity among the western archeologists.

Religion was one of the strong inspirations in Hampi. Its religious history is much older than the political history. Both the subjects and their rulers of this place had an almost innate faith in God. The far end of religious history of Hampi somehow morphs into mythology. The significant events narrated in the Hindu epic Ramayana (believed to have originally composed in 1st century BC) is believed to have happened in the settings surrounding Hampi. The most imperative is the section narrating the monkey kingdom - Kishkinda. Hinduism in Hampi had two major sects. The Saivaites and the Vasihnavites. The former worships the destroyer God Siva whereas the later worships Lord Vishnu (the preserver or maintainer).Both of these cults of Hinduism had been (and still is) in practice in Hampi. And then there are a number of sub-cults of branched out of these faiths. Out of these two, the Shiva worship had been the oldest in Hampi. The epicenter of this cult was the Virupaksha temple. Even today it is one of the important pilgrimage centre for Siva worshipers. If you draw a vertical line on the Hampi’s landscape keeping the Matanga Hill at the center, the eastern areas are sprinkled with the temples and shrines of Vishnu faith and the west of Shiva faith. Apart from these mainstream sects, there are a number of noteworthy beliefs practiced in Hampi. The numerous shrines and motifs of Hanuman (the monkey God) across the length and breadth of Hampi illustrate the significance associated to this faith. Hanuman is associated with strength and loyalty. Generally all the gateways in this medieval city had a Hanuman shrine next to it. When you explore Hampi you would realize this thanks to the number of Hanuman motifs scattered all around.

The presence of Islamic faith in the Hampi’s social moorings is interesting. As an imperial capital, Hampi had a cosmopolitan outlook. Though it is the Sultans of the Deccan brought down the empire, Hampi had a sizeable Muslim population. So was in its army’s composition.http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d6/Hampi_Lotos_Mahal.jpgIt’s peculiar to see the religious carvings on the Temple structures with Muslim characteristics. For example, the sculptures where Muslim soldiers riding the mythical Yali of Hindu mythology. The kitchen or the storehouse of Krishna Temple made in the typical Islamic style architecture. A number of buildings in Hampi have been identified to be associated with Islamic faith. There are a number of Mosques and Dargahs (shrines of revered religious figures) doted especially at the southwest diagonal area of the capital. The present day Kadirampura is believed to be the residential quarters of the Muslim army officers. An area lying between the Kamalapura and Vittala Temple was known as the Islamic quarter. A mosque is located at the centre of this area known after Ahmed Khan, a high officer in the court of Krishna Devaraya II. The architecture of is a pleasant deviation from the typical Islamic style. For a moment this could be mistaken for a Hindu style ceremonial hall. It is believed that king Krishna Devaraya kept a copy of the holy Quran on a pedestal next to his throne. He probably used it as a pledge of his patron to the religion and also used it to take oath when Muslim officers are appointed. The Jain temple of the eastern area with its inscriptions speaks of the patronage this faith enjoyed. History also speaks of the animosity between the Hindu & Jain faiths and how some of the kings tried to mend the hostility.